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Wineador, Thermoelectric vs Compressor, what’s the real issues?

FireRobFireRob Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 1,884
I am doing my research on a Winador. I asked a question the other day about storing a coolador in my non climate controlled wood shop and am now looking at a wine chiller as an option. Lots of talk about, get a Thermoelectric cooled and do not use Compressor cooled. WHY?? Is humidity being sucked out the only reason?

In my research I am finding a Thermoelectric would not work cause the ambient temps in my wood shop are way too high during the summer and it could not keep up and keep it cool enough.

Catfish, I am not picking on you just trying to find out why you had a change of heart?

On 8-7-2012 you said this:

catfishbluezz:
FYI...the two guys I know with compressor units have never had that issue and they work perfectly. Given the longevity of the compressor cooled unit, I don't see a reason not to go that route. Ninja recently started his with the Oasis XL and no beads and is having perfect success....

I definately recommend going this route to anyone and wish I had gone it initially. The smokes that come out of the wineador are perfect. Jiunn can chime in to with this.


Then on 2-11-14 you said this and why I am curious you changed your opinion on the Thermoelectric and Compressor cooled:
catfishbluezz:
Find out if they are compressor cooled, you don't want them if so.


Thanks in advance for the info. Ill have more Wineador questions and post them here, so please keep checking this thread when you see a new post pop up.

Comments

  • chrisloldschrislolds Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 421
    I wonder if it would have to do with defrost cycle of a compressor and possibly causing big shifts in RH? I'm not sure if the defrost cycle would cause a shift in RH or not inside the unit?
  • Lee.mcglynnLee.mcglynn Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 5,228
    The rh drops fast and hard! If I were you I'd go compressor but store the cigars in sealed containers. You will also probably want too make sure it has a fan in it and not just a evaporator...this could cause a issue of big temp swings
  • thedjfish@comcast.netthedjfish@comcast.net Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 1,533
    FireRob:
    I am doing my research on a Winador. I asked a question the other day about storing a coolador in my non climate controlled wood shop and am now looking at a wine chiller as an option. Lots of talk about, get a Thermoelectric cooled and do not use Compressor cooled. WHY?? Is humidity being sucked out the only reason?

    In my research I am finding a Thermoelectric would not work cause the ambient temps in my wood shop are way too high during the summer and it could not keep up and keep it cool enough.

    Catfish, I am not picking on you just trying to find out why you had a change of heart?

    On 8-7-2012 you said this:

    catfishbluezz:
    FYI...the two guys I know with compressor units have never had that issue and they work perfectly. Given the longevity of the compressor cooled unit, I don't see a reason not to go that route. Ninja recently started his with the Oasis XL and no beads and is having perfect success....

    I definately recommend going this route to anyone and wish I had gone it initially. The smokes that come out of the wineador are perfect. Jiunn can chime in to with this.


    Then on 2-11-14 you said this and why I am curious you changed your opinion on the Thermoelectric and Compressor cooled:
    catfishbluezz:
    Find out if they are compressor cooled, you don't want them if so.


    Thanks in advance for the info. Ill have more Wineador questions and post them here, so please keep checking this thread when you see a new post pop up.
    Rob, you want to know the real deal? it's circulation, the problem with either unit is poor air circulation, thats why you need to add several circulation fan's.

    i run 7 wineadors, but being that i have a bit of OCD, i bought 1 wine cooler first experimented with what would keep the humidity stable regardless of unit type, you have to keep the air moving in one manner or another so you have a constant flow of humidified/cooled air,

    if you have a good amount of air movement then your cooler can keep up pretty easily since cool and humidified air is in constant motion,
    temp sensors see a steady temp and may kick the unit's on every now and then to keep at the deisred temp, but not as nearly as hard as it would if you had no air movement, no air movement means the units own cooling fans need to work a bit longer,and for a compressor unit that means drawing more humidity out of the air,hence the humidity drops substancially.

    my method of air movement i place 4 fans on the back wall 2 up high about 4-6" from the top of the unitblowing down across the cooler cell, and 2 at the bottom where i keep my humidity beads,
    the beads are placed on the bottomof the cooler to sop up the access water that is pulled from the air and drain right back down into the beads, the 2 fans that are low are actually blowing down on the beads, the air redirects to the front where i have 2 more fans blowing up wards, a total of 6 fans, takes up a bit of room in some way, but it's a real good system so far temps hold fine and humidity never goes below 65% or higher then 69% varies on how often i open the coolers.

    thats why i buy the distressed ones i find i pay about $60 shipped for them and after a bit of rewiring they work just fine, they may have dents or the hinges are a bit shotty but they work for me just fine since i don't use them for display only for storing,
    all in all i spend about $80 on all the stuff per unit, i use a led light power supply rated at 20A and 240w, keep in mind most pc fans are 12v and are at 0.18A which is only about 3w, so i have pplenty of room to work with just in case i need more fan's.
  • catfishbluezzcatfishbluezz Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 6,993
    Cost.... Compressor can be used but drops insanely fast once opened. You need to install an electric unit along with beads to create a stable environment. Going compressor means spending an extra $150 on rh. I still have no problem with either really, but I do not recommend compressor assuming most will not take the additional time and energy involved with installing an electric unit. Compressor with beads alone is not stable really, and the cooling system itself will change the environment. I'd still have no problem going either way, I just went thermo and spent $13 on KL. I bought mine from costco so I can always return if defective as well.
  • FireRobFireRob Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 1,884
    Good stuff.

    Catfish, I have a Moist-N-Aire collecting dust right now (actually I have a few) Would this be a good option in the Wineador? That brings me to my next question. What is the best way to run the power cord for an electric humidifier and other fans out the wine cooler to a power supply?
  • thedjfish@comcast.netthedjfish@comcast.net Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 1,533
    FireRob:
    Good stuff.

    Catfish, I have a Moist-N-Aire collecting dust right now (actually I have a few) Would this be a good option in the Wineador? That brings me to my next question. What is the best way to run the power cord for an electric humidifier and other fans out the wine cooler to a power supply?
    your gonna need to utilize a existing hole, or drill one for them.
  • FireRobFireRob Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 1,884
    Thanks Joe, Then after I drill a hole in the side or where ever and run my cord through can I seal the hole with something like expansion foam from a can?

    What about the Moist-N-Aire? Would that be acceptable to use inside a compressor cooled wine fridge?
  • catfishbluezzcatfishbluezz Everyone, Registered Users Posts: 6,993
    FireRob:
    Good stuff.

    Catfish, I have a Moist-N-Aire collecting dust right now (actually I have a few) Would this be a good option in the Wineador? That brings me to my next question. What is the best way to run the power cord for an electric humidifier and other fans out the wine cooler to a power supply?
    don't see why it wouldn't. Use the drain off as the hole, should be on the bottom. Cut the end of the power cord off to run it through.
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