I would drywall over the exposed wall studs for the fire rating, if nothing else. It's not that expensive, and can be finished off nicely at a min cost.
Another good point!
You really should drywall the ceiling too, if it's not already, for the fire rating. If you have a fire, God forbid, at least the drywall will hold it up for a little while, and contain it till the FD guys get there.
I agree. You are (again) 100% correct. I really appreciate all the help. Let me know if you have any other suggestions
I would drywall over the exposed wall studs for the fire rating, if nothing else. It's not that expensive, and can be finished off nicely at a min cost.
Another good point!
You really should drywall the ceiling too, if it's not already, for the fire rating. If you have a fire, God forbid, at least the drywall will hold it up for a little while, and contain it till the FD guys get there.
I agree. You are (again) 100% correct. I really appreciate all the help. Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Can you put up some pictures of the space?
Here is a pic. Please ignore the Bycycles and left over construction supplies.
I would drywall over the exposed wall studs for the fire rating, if nothing else. It's not that expensive, and can be finished off nicely at a min cost.
Another good point!
You really should drywall the ceiling too, if it's not already, for the fire rating. If you have a fire, God forbid, at least the drywall will hold it up for a little while, and contain it till the FD guys get there.
I agree. You are (again) 100% correct. I really appreciate all the help. Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Can you put up some pictures of the space?
Here is a pic. Please ignore the Bycycles and left over construction supplies.
OK - You really ought to drywall the ceiling and all exposed studding. It looks to me like you have some 1" stock running perpendicular on 2'' floor joists installed to hold up the insulation. The drywall should be attached to the exposed floor joists and not the 1" stock. I know that's a pain in the ass, but it really should be done. You can staple plastic sheeting to the floor joists to replace the 1" stuff that's up there, and then drywall over that. Don't know how close you are to an electrical box, but wiring should be fairly easy for your exhaust. I would also strongly consider mounting the exhaust in the exposed ceiling cavity, close to the exterior wall, and run ducting directly from that exhaust to a new opening in the exterior wall with a baffel on the outside of the vent ( like a dryer vent) This vent should be at least 4' away from the window. I would use the existing window to provide fresh air while smoking (just crack it open a little, maybe an inch or two). This will increase your airflow, and replenish the existing air faster, helping to remove the smoke more completely in less time. I'm guesing the room is about 10' - 14' wide? Talk with a good HVAC contractor about your exhaust, and how much exhaust you will need.
I would drywall over the exposed wall studs for the fire rating, if nothing else. It's not that expensive, and can be finished off nicely at a min cost.
Another good point!
You really should drywall the ceiling too, if it's not already, for the fire rating. If you have a fire, God forbid, at least the drywall will hold it up for a little while, and contain it till the FD guys get there.
I agree. You are (again) 100% correct. I really appreciate all the help. Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Can you put up some pictures of the space?
Here is a pic. Please ignore the Bycycles and left over construction supplies.
OK - You really ought to drywall the ceiling and all exposed studding. It looks to me like you have some 1" stock running perpendicular on 2'' floor joists installed to hold up the insulation. The drywall should be attached to the exposed floor joists and not the 1" stock. I know that's a pain in the ass, but it really should be done. You can staple plastic sheeting to the floor joists to replace the 1" stuff that's up there, and then drywall over that. Don't know how close you are to an electrical box, but wiring should be fairly easy for your exhaust. I would also strongly consider mounting the exhaust in the exposed ceiling cavity, close to the exterior wall, and run ducting directly from that exhaust to a new opening in the exterior wall with a baffel on the outside of the vent ( like a dryer vent) This vent should be at least 4' away from the window. I would use the existing window to provide fresh air while smoking (just crack it open a little, maybe an inch or two). This will increase your airflow, and replenish the existing air faster, helping to remove the smoke more completely in less time. I'm guesing the room is about 10' - 14' wide? Talk with a good HVAC contractor about your exhaust, and how much exhaust you will need.
I realize I'll have to wire up the insualtion & take down the strapping . On the opposite side of the left side wall has my new upgraded electrical. So that will be a breeze. I'm also going to put some additional outlets in there. Cable for TV, etc. The room (interior) is 11'X19'. Thinking of maybe two exhaust vents but will talk to my HVAC guy (who I have given plenty of cigars to in the past). He's also going to put some baseboard heat in there for me too. Afterall, its so I have a place to go in the Wintertime. Thanks again for all your advice.
I would drywall over the exposed wall studs for the fire rating, if nothing else. It's not that expensive, and can be finished off nicely at a min cost.
Another good point!
You really should drywall the ceiling too, if it's not already, for the fire rating. If you have a fire, God forbid, at least the drywall will hold it up for a little while, and contain it till the FD guys get there.
I agree. You are (again) 100% correct. I really appreciate all the help. Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Can you put up some pictures of the space?
Here is a pic. Please ignore the Bycycles and left over construction supplies.
OK - You really ought to drywall the ceiling and all exposed studding. It looks to me like you have some 1" stock running perpendicular on 2'' floor joists installed to hold up the insulation. The drywall should be attached to the exposed floor joists and not the 1" stock. I know that's a pain in the ass, but it really should be done. You can staple plastic sheeting to the floor joists to replace the 1" stuff that's up there, and then drywall over that. Don't know how close you are to an electrical box, but wiring should be fairly easy for your exhaust. I would also strongly consider mounting the exhaust in the exposed ceiling cavity, close to the exterior wall, and run ducting directly from that exhaust to a new opening in the exterior wall with a baffel on the outside of the vent ( like a dryer vent) This vent should be at least 4' away from the window. I would use the existing window to provide fresh air while smoking (just crack it open a little, maybe an inch or two). This will increase your airflow, and replenish the existing air faster, helping to remove the smoke more completely in less time. I'm guesing the room is about 10' - 14' wide? Talk with a good HVAC contractor about your exhaust, and how much exhaust you will need.
I realize I'll have to wire up the insualtion & take down the strapping . On the opposite side of the left side wall has my new upgraded electrical. So that will be a breeze. I'm also going to put some additional outlets in there. Cable for TV, etc. The room (interior) is 11'X19'. Thinking of maybe two exhaust vents but will talk to my HVAC guy (who I have given plenty of cigars to in the past). He's also going to put some baseboard heat in there for me too. Afterall, its so I have a place to go in the Wintertime. Thanks again for all your advice.
No problem. I'll ask around the office and see if anyone else has any other ideas/suggestions. What are your winters like - where are you located?
I would drywall over the exposed wall studs for the fire rating, if nothing else. It's not that expensive, and can be finished off nicely at a min cost.
Another good point!
You really should drywall the ceiling too, if it's not already, for the fire rating. If you have a fire, God forbid, at least the drywall will hold it up for a little while, and contain it till the FD guys get there.
I agree. You are (again) 100% correct. I really appreciate all the help. Let me know if you have any other suggestions
Can you put up some pictures of the space?
Here is a pic. Please ignore the Bycycles and left over construction supplies.
OK - You really ought to drywall the ceiling and all exposed studding. It looks to me like you have some 1" stock running perpendicular on 2'' floor joists installed to hold up the insulation. The drywall should be attached to the exposed floor joists and not the 1" stock. I know that's a pain in the ass, but it really should be done. You can staple plastic sheeting to the floor joists to replace the 1" stuff that's up there, and then drywall over that. Don't know how close you are to an electrical box, but wiring should be fairly easy for your exhaust. I would also strongly consider mounting the exhaust in the exposed ceiling cavity, close to the exterior wall, and run ducting directly from that exhaust to a new opening in the exterior wall with a baffel on the outside of the vent ( like a dryer vent) This vent should be at least 4' away from the window. I would use the existing window to provide fresh air while smoking (just crack it open a little, maybe an inch or two). This will increase your airflow, and replenish the existing air faster, helping to remove the smoke more completely in less time. I'm guesing the room is about 10' - 14' wide? Talk with a good HVAC contractor about your exhaust, and how much exhaust you will need.
I realize I'll have to wire up the insualtion & take down the strapping . On the opposite side of the left side wall has my new upgraded electrical. So that will be a breeze. I'm also going to put some additional outlets in there. Cable for TV, etc. The room (interior) is 11'X19'. Thinking of maybe two exhaust vents but will talk to my HVAC guy (who I have given plenty of cigars to in the past). He's also going to put some baseboard heat in there for me too. Afterall, its so I have a place to go in the Wintertime. Thanks again for all your advice.
No problem. I'll ask around the office and see if anyone else has any other ideas/suggestions. What are your winters like - where are you located?
Do NOT take down the strapping that is standard construction it gives you chases for electrical and plumbing repeat Do Not take it down thats what the board hangs from! plastic over that. Lighting and everything is designed to work with strapping! the strapping is 3" and floor joist is 1 1/2" it will be alot easier to attach joining wallboard on a 3" surface give each board 1 1/2 inches vs a 1 1/2 joist with a 3/4 inch surface area.
Do NOT take down the strapping that is standard construction it gives you chases for electrical and plumbing repeat Do Not take it down thats what the board hangs from! plastic over that. Lighting and everything is designed to work with strapping! the strapping is 3" and floor joist is 1 1/2" it will be alot easier to attach joining wallboard on a 3" surface give each board 1 1/2 inches vs a 1 1/2 joist with a 3/4 inch surface area.
Really? Thats Awesome Cooch! (Actually your the second person that said that to me).
We have several level II certified building inspectors, and one Master level inspector in our office. Nobody advises that the 1" stock be left up. It is convenient for the electricians and plumbers, but all wiring and pipe for this space can be run with minimal impact on the structure.
Everyone I spoke with responded that it would be better to attach the drywall directly to the floor joists. The reason most commonly given is that the firring strips may have a tendency to split when attaching the ceiling, but there's no danger of that happening with the floor joists. Attaching the drywal to the firring strips is not standard practice in Kentucky. (But, if I've learned anything about KY it's that things here are done just a little bit differently from anywhere else I've ever been.)
If you can afford it, I would frame out the entire space, insulate it well, drywall the whole room, that way it will retain the heat a lot easier, and you'll be more comfortable at a lower cost.
We have several level II certified building inspectors, and one Master level inspector in our office. Nobody advises that the 1" stock be left up. It is convenient for the electricians and plumbers, but all wiring and pipe for this space can be run with minimal impact on the structure.
Everyone I spoke with responded that it would be better to attach the drywall directly to the floor joists. The reason most commonly given is that the firring strips may have a tendency to split when attaching the ceiling, but there's no danger of that happening with the floor joists. Attaching the drywal to the firring strips is not standard practice in Kentucky. (But, if I've learned anything about KY it's that things here are done just a little bit differently from anywhere else I've ever been.)
If you can afford it, I would frame out the entire space, insulate it well, drywall the whole room, that way it will retain the heat a lot easier, and you'll be more comfortable at a lower cost.
The town I live in is crazy w/ regs. There are some Contractors that won't even work here. They are (a lot of the times) un reasonable. The guys that did my dry wall said he'd come over and give me a hand (I bought them lunch for a whole week. They love me!). He said to wire up the insualtion and take down the firring would take about an hour. Sooooooooo.
We have several level II certified building inspectors, and one Master level inspector in our office. Nobody advises that the 1" stock be left up. It is convenient for the electricians, but all wiring for this space can be run with minimal impact on the structure. Everyone I spoke with responded that it would be better to attach the drywall directly to the floor joists.
Having said that, hanging the drywall from the 1" x 3"'s probably wouldn't cause any problems, but it is not standard practice in Kentucky. (But, if I've learned anything about KY it's that things here are done just a little bit differently from anywhere else I've ever been.)
To much respect JDH. Mass Building is always done with strapping on the ceiling. Mass. Building code requires that with a 5 to 1 depth to thickness ratio require haveing lateral support, to prevent twisting of the joist, but everyone just puts the strapping in no matter what the nominal dimensions are. The building codes here are very different as to any other state, it is highly restrictive and involved. I grew up in VT and I know in VT, NH and Maine there are no residential building codes, if you own a hammer your a contractor. All plumbing is also run along the ceiling in basements as well on the bottom of the floor joist so the strapping also allows for that as well. I wish the codes where more forgiving but I've seen what some people have done not knowing the codes in construction and am glad that we have codes as we do.
It's a pain in the ass, but if I'm driving screws in that ceiling, I want to go into 2 x stock. Trust the drywallers working in your area (if you know their work and are confident in their reputations). I know what you mean about too much inspection. Some guys just get picky. Some guys just like to impress with their authority. Me, I believe in getting it done at the lowest cost to the owner, while still maintaining standard, code compliant practices.
I second JDH on framing out the entire space. If you do it yourself it will be reasonable. You can buy a compresser and guns and any and all other tools and be ahead of what you would pay a contractor. The only draw back is your work habbits. Get it done kind of guy or a couple hrs here and there.
We have several level II certified building inspectors, and one Master level inspector in our office. Nobody advises that the 1" stock be left up. It is convenient for the electricians, but all wiring for this space can be run with minimal impact on the structure. Everyone I spoke with responded that it would be better to attach the drywall directly to the floor joists.
Having said that, hanging the drywall from the 1" x 3"'s probably wouldn't cause any problems, but it is not standard practice in Kentucky. (But, if I've learned anything about KY it's that things here are done just a little bit differently from anywhere else I've ever been.)
To much respect JDH. Mass Building is always done with strapping on the ceiling. Mass. Building code requires that with a 5 to 1 depth to thickness ratio require haveing lateral support, to prevent twisting of the joist, but everyone just puts the strapping in no matter what the nominal dimensions are. The building codes here are very different as to any other state, it is highly restrictive and involved. I grew up in VT and I know in VT, NH and Maine there are no residential building codes, if you own a hammer your a contractor. All plumbing is also run along the ceiling in basements as well on the bottom of the floor joist so the strapping also allows for that as well. I wish the codes where more forgiving but I've seen what some people have done not knowing the codes in construction and am glad that we have codes as we do.
Well, building codes are specific to different regions for a reason. You've got to go with the code in your area. Like I said, we do things just a little bit different here in KY.
It's a pain in the ass, but if I'm driving screws in that ceiling, I want to go into 2 x stock. Trust the drywallers working in your area (if you know their work and are confident in their reputations). I know what you mean about too much inspection. Some guys just get picky. Some guys just like to impress with their authority. Me, I believe in getting it done at the lowest cost to the owner, while still maintaining standard, code compliant practices.
The one thing I hate about MA inspectors is town to town you never know what hair they have up their ass. I've have had most of my inspections go in just a few minutes with little or no looking at the work. And I've had a 45 min. insullation inspection. I had to laugh last summer I build a very complex multi level deck what was really funky shaped to go around a pool and more it was huge. The inspector didn't even look at my framing but flagged me for my gate being 47 1/2" not 48"
It's a pain in the ass, but if I'm driving screws in that ceiling, I want to go into 2 x stock. Trust the drywallers working in your area (if you know their work and are confident in their reputations). I know what you mean about too much inspection. Some guys just get picky. Some guys just like to impress with their authority. Me, I believe in getting it done at the lowest cost to the owner, while still maintaining standard, code compliant practices.
The one thing I hate about MA inspectors is town to town you never know what hair they have up their ass. I've have had most of my inspections go in just a few minutes with little or no looking at the work. And I've had a 45 min. insullation inspection. I had to laugh last summer I build a very complex multi level deck what was really funky shaped to go around a pool and more it was huge. The inspector didn't even look at my framing but flagged me for my gate being 47 1/2" not 48"
That would be your standard idiot inspector. They're everywhere. At least you got a good laugh out of it.
Comments
Everyone I spoke with responded that it would be better to attach the drywall directly to the floor joists. The reason most commonly given is that the firring strips may have a tendency to split when attaching the ceiling, but there's no danger of that happening with the floor joists. Attaching the drywal to the firring strips is not standard practice in Kentucky. (But, if I've learned anything about KY it's that things here are done just a little bit differently from anywhere else I've ever been.)
If you can afford it, I would frame out the entire space, insulate it well, drywall the whole room, that way it will retain the heat a lot easier, and you'll be more comfortable at a lower cost.